Prossesing Black and White Photos

1. A metal or plastic film tank,Three dark plastic containers to hold chemistry, Graduates (used to measure chemicals), A darkroom timer, A can opener and, A room that is totally light proof (not even the slightest sliver of light should be visible)
2.), Developer (see other sidebar), Glacial Acetic Acid (optional, for Stop Bath), Fixer (Kodak Rapid Fixer with Hardener is highly recommended) and, Hypo Eliminator.
3.) Remove the film from the cassette. Load the film onto either a metal or plastic film reel. Place the loaded reel in the film tank ad cover. Posses film by laying out the chemicals in front of you: a film developer (nickname: soup), a stop bath, and a fixer with hardener, and a hypo eliminator bath. Most film is processed between 65 and 75 degrees. Pour developer into the open part of the sealed film tank. Pour running water into the pour spout for one minute to stop development let the film sit in that for 30 seconds to wash off the developer. Pour in a tankful of Hypo Eliminator (also called Hypo Clearing Agent) and agitate for two minutes. One final wash, for five minutes. In about 1-2 hours, the film will be dry. Use scissors to cut the film into strips six negatives long. Be careful to cut the film in the space between the images.

1. Contact sheet- a contact print, usually of all frames of a developed roll of negative print film, used as a proof print.

2. Enlarger- an apparatus used for making projection prints, having a head for holding, illuminating, and projecting a film negative and a bed for holding a sheet of sensitized printing paper.

3. Developer- a reducing agent or solution for developing a film or the like.
4. Stop Bath
5. Fixer